Customer Comments

I want to compliment Hubys on the service we have received for our Liebherr freezer. Gareth turned up this morning at 8.00am – west of Harrogate coming from Hull – he immediately set about diagnosing the fault. Unfortunately he did not have the required spare but will be back soon to fit it. It was a real treat to have such a pleasant young man who obviously was expert in doing his job. Well done Hubys!

(Published with the customers permission)

Rangemaster Cookers

Is your Rangemaster cooker out of warranty ?

Is it dual fuel with natural or LPG gas ?



Or is it all electric ?

Huby Domestic Appliances is an authorised repairer for Rangemaster , Falcon and Mercury range cookers . Our stores hold extensive spare parts in order to repair these products. We also have access to Rangemasters own spares holdings and all the technical information available should it be required. We also repair their full range of domestic appliances , including dishwashers , side by side refrigeration, wine coolers and ice makers.

As many of the Rangemaster range of refrigeration products include R134a refrigerant in their systems these fall into the remit of the Fgas legislation , to comply with this we are also registered with

.

If you require a service call or a spare part please contact us



Fisher and Paykel Dishdrawer

All our engineers have been fully trained by the Fisher and Paykel technical team on their range of products. The Fisher and Paykel dish drawer is a unique product that is  extremely reliable. However should you need service call we are the only authorised service agents in our region. This allows us full access to all their technical information  and spares parts to enable a speedy , professional repair service on these products

The Fisher and Paykel dishwashers we can service and repair are from the DD603 single and double drawer range, then to the DD605 range and now through to the current DD60 and  the new 90cm wide DD90 range.

To arrange a service call  you can contact us or call on 01482 866660

My fan oven is not heating up

There are a number of reasons which may point you in the direction that an element may have failed in your fan oven.

Below are a number of faults which may be reported:

1) Fan runs no heat
2) No heat in oven
3) No heat from oven
4) Fan oven not heating
5) Sparks and a bang from fan oven

On your fan oven there is usually an indicator light on the fascia panel which illuminates once a function has been selected. This indication shows that there is power to the oven. There is often a second indicator light that tells you when the oven is at temperature by going out, and then cycles on and off along with the oven element in order to maintain temperature.

The temperature deviation from a set temperature is allowed to be plus of minus 10%. Therefore if you set your thermosta to 200 degrees the variation of the actual centre of oven temperature could be between 180 and 220 degrees. However, many modern ovens are much more accurate than this.

Naturally the user of the appliance becomes accustomed to their own oven and adapts their cooking methods accordingly. Therefore the accuracy of the oven thermostat often gets adopted into the users own way of cooking without actually recognising any slight inaccuracies

However, what the cycling thermostat indicates to the repair person is that the element is receiving voltage. The thermostat light is normally powered by the same voltage that is going to the fan element. Therefore if the fan motor is running and the thermostat light is on, the element should be receiving power and the oven should be heating.

If this is not the case then the fan element could be open circuit and you need to call a repair person to undertake a competent repair in order to return your appliance to full functionality.

Dishwasher Drying Problems

Modern domestic appliances are being designed to reduce the impact they have on the environment, manufacturers of dishwashers are playing their part in this whilst maintaining high levels of cleaning and drying.
One of the ways manufactures have reduced the amount of energy consumed in a dishwasher cycle has been to alter the drying phase or cycle. In earlier models manufacturers such as Bosch , Smeg and Whirlpool along with many others achieved this by energising an exposed heating element during the drying phase. This heating element heated the wash tank which in turn evaporated the water from the pots within the dishwasher, this was aided by the addition of rinse aid during the last rinse cycle which helped reduce the surface tension of the water on the pots allowing it to dry with better results. This process whilst giving good drying results was a very inefficient method.

Modern day appliances such as Kenwood , Beko , Rangemaster and Gorenje to mention but a few use a tube type heater to heat the water as it flows through the heater. Whilst this is much more efficient in the wash cycle it has meant an alternative method is required for drying. The element is now not used in the drying phase, but the heat required to evaporate the water is generated during the last hot rinse which is then transferred to the pots inside the cabinet. This heat that is stored within the pots is then sufficient to evaporate the water deposits once again with the aid of the rinse aid added in the last rinse.
If you should encounter poor drying results the following may assist you before calling out a service engineer.
1 As drying is now performed with the aid of stored heat certain materials such as plastics , wooden items and pan handles have poor thermal conductivity properties and therefore are unable to store enough heat energy to aid complete drying. This is not a fault of the dishwasher and the majority of these water droplets will eventually evaporate naturally but may leave calcium stains on the items.
2 A water hardness test should be carried out to ensure that the water softener is set to the correct setting along with the dosage meter that dispenses the rinse aid.
3 Items such as teflon coated pans and ovenware may have water droplets remaining on them due to the heat barrier that is created by the coating.
4 Certain wash cycles do not incorporate a dry cycle or heated final rinse in order to make them more energy efficient. In these cases the door should be opened at the end of the cycle to aid natural drying. However, if you do this ensure the appliance is installed in such a way that damage cannot occur to surrounding cupboards , worktops and other items.
5 Some dishwashers have an option for using combined washing detergents and tablets such as 3 in 1 and 5 in 1. These products are sometimes not as efficient as separate detergent , rinse aid and salt dependent on the minerals in your water supply.

Should you still be encountering problems and require a service call to repair your dishwasher contact us

Fridge door seal or door closing problems

There are several reasons for your fridge or freezer door not closing properly…

1. Broken hinges or worn out door bearing surfaces. Where the pin of the hinge secures into the door there are cylindrical bearing inserts, these wear and break, causing the door to be out of square with the cabinet.

2. The appliance is not mounted on a flat surface and the cabinet twists out of square. This will cause the door or doors to look lopsided and ill fitting. The cure is to install the fridge or freezer correctly on a level surface, with the fridge or freezer just ever so slightly leaning backwards, this helps the door to shut under gravity.

3. The door seal has a magnetic strip built into each of its four sides, this strip is what holds the door closed, once shut. The seal should be correctly fitted in place upon the door, so that it does not stop the door from fitting flush.

If the problem persists or you are unable to resolve the issue yourself do not hesitate to contact us for a repair.

Smell from washing machine

Washing machine smells develop because of bacteria breeding on residue left behind after a wash. The residue is made up of soap detergent, softener and soiling (from the clothes) all these cling to the surfaces within the inner tub/drum compartment. The damp, warm and dark conditions within the tub are an ideal enviroment for bacteria to start growing, and it is this bacteria which gives off the smell. The more they grow the stronger the smell.

Here’s some simple steps to help remove the smell…

1. Dry the seal, in the lowest section water collects even if the seal has a drain hole, dry this and help prevent black mold from forming.

2. Leave the door open when not in use and this, combined with drying the seal, helps the inside dry out and that reduces the chances of bad smells.

3. Once a month perform a service wash. That is carry out a hot wash on 60*C or 90*C cycle with a detergent that includes an oxygen bleach, that means a powder detergent as liquid detergents do not have oxygen bleach in them.

DO NOT PUT ANY CLOTHING IN THIS SERVICE WASH.

The combination of hot water and bleach will remove the bacteria that are causing the smells. If your washer has been smelling for a while the problem will only be solved by repeated Service Washes, once the problem has been solved a 4 weekly/ monthly Service wash will keep the smell in check.
If you have a removable lint filter remember to keep this clean also.

Washing machine noise

If your washing machine is noisier than normal it may be that the drum bearings are possibly wearing out. Amazingly, Many end users put up with the noise from the washing machine which could be causing untold damage to the appliance or the items within it.

Bearing changes can be quick and easy to do if caught at an early stage. Ignoring the problem leads to prolonged and more expensive repairs.

Some built in models of washing machine are a difficult to work on when it comes to a bearing replacement and are best undertaken by a professional or competent person.

It also could just be a noisy pump, but this noise will be present during any drain action i.e. during the rinse cycles.

If its noisy during the wash, has your washing machine a recycling pump, one that sprays water on to the clothes, this pump can also go noisy.

Don’t hesitate to contact us here at the first sign of any unusual noise.

Washing machine leaking on draining

There are several reasons for this happening:

Firstly, check that the household drain pipe is not blocked. These often fur up and block, causing the draining water from the washer to back up the stand pipe and overflow on to the floor. A full wash load of water is around 3 to 4 gallons of water, it can cause lots of damage to floor coverings.

Also, the washing machine should be plumbed in to a 1 3/4 inch diameter drain pipe, check it is. If the pipe is 1 1/2 inch diameter it is too small, this could block and restrict how quickly the water can run away. Remember, that once the water has left the washing machine drain hose it is no longer “pumped” it is being gravity driven from then on, it needs a clear pipe.

There is a trend to plumb the washing machine drain hose to a sink waste. This is not a great idea, the sink waste adaptor is a massive restriction to the waste water leaving your washer. The sink waste spout can easily block and cause problems. A badly run hose can also allow dirty water from the sink into the washer, causing smells and overfilling when not switched on problems.

Other causes include splits in the drain hoses, the household waste pipe joints are leaking or possible your filter has not been fitted correctly.

If you are in any doubt do not hesitate to contact us here and we will resolve this problem.

Washing machine not spinning

If you find that your washing machine is not doing the final spin, this may be because it hasn’t drained.  This is a common washing machine problem. The cause may be a simple blockage, or it might be component failure – pump, belt, brushes, motor, pcb, timer etc.  With your make and model details we can give you an idea of likely repair costs.  Check if it is draining & also check the filter then contact us here if you are unable to resolve the problem.